OPEN UP YOUR FLOOR PLAN

A simple non-load-bearing wall removal takes about 1-2 weeks from start to finish. If we're removing a load-bearing wall and installing a steel beam, plan on 3-4 weeks—structural engineering adds time, and the beam needs to be fabricated to spec. More complex projects involving multiple walls, major utility relocations, or structural changes to second-story framing can stretch to 6-8 weeks. Permitting in St. Pete typically adds 2-4 weeks before we start.

Removing a load-bearing wall and installing a steel beam typically runs $15,000-$35,000. That includes the structural engineer's letter ($800-$1,500), permits, beam fabrication, installation, drywall repair, paint, and utility relocations. The biggest variables are beam span (longer spans need bigger, more expensive beams), ceiling height, and what utilities are in the wall. Simple openings in non-load-bearing walls start around $8,000-$12,000.

Yes, if the wall is load-bearing. Any structural work requires a building permit and a structural engineer's letter. St. Pete building inspectors want to see the engineer's calculations and beam specifications before they'll issue the permit. Non-load-bearing walls technically don't require permits, but most contractors pull them anyway—you want documentation that the work was inspected. If you're touching electrical or plumbing inside the wall, those trades require separate permits regardless of whether the wall is load-bearing.

Load-bearing walls typically run perpendicular to floor joists and are usually located near the center of the house. But here's the thing—you can't tell for certain without getting into the attic or crawlspace to see what's actually sitting on top of the wall. That's why we always bring in a structural engineer before we touch anything. The engineer will look at the framing, calculate loads, and tell us exactly what we're dealing with. Assuming a wall is non-load-bearing is how you end up with sagging ceilings—or worse.

A structural engineer is a licensed professional who calculates loads, sizes beams, and stamps plans that the building department will accept. When you remove a load-bearing wall, all the weight it was holding—roof, second floor, whatever's above—needs to transfer to a beam. The engineer figures out what size beam you need (steel, LVL, glulam) based on span, load, and building code. Their letter is required for permitting. Cost is usually $800-$1,500. It's not optional—St. Pete won't issue a permit without it.

Almost always yes, in a positive way. Open floor plans are what buyers expect now—closed-off kitchens and choppy layouts feel dated. We've seen kitchen-to-living room openings add $20,000-$40,000 in appraised value on Old Northeast and Kenwood homes. That said, don't plan the renovation for future buyers. Buyers will laugh at features you installed for their benefit that they won't use. Build it for how you actually live—the value follows from that.

We relocate it. Electrical is straightforward—we reroute wires through the attic or adjacent walls. Plumbing is trickier and more expensive. If there are water supply lines, we reroute them. If there's a drain or vent stack, that's a bigger deal—drain lines are bulky and gravity-dependent, so relocating them often means cutting into the slab or running new lines overhead. This is why we scope out utilities before we quote the job. Surprises in the walls can add several thousand dollars.

We coordinate the whole thing. We bring in the structural engineer during pre-construction, get the beam sized and specified, pull permits, order the beam (which takes 2-3 weeks to fabricate), schedule inspections, and handle all the trades. Our carpenters do the demo, framing, drywall, and finish work—we don't sub that out, which means we control the timeline. You'll see every invoice and get weekly budget updates. No surprises.